Highly anticipated as it is every year, Guide Michelin France’s new listing for 2017 has just been revealed, with a record number of new stars out of the 70 entrants.
Listed among this year’s awards is Yannick Alléno, who has maintained his three Michelin stars for a second year. This may not be a new accolade at Paris’ Pavillon Ledoyen, but it’s a new honour for the French chef at his restaurant in Courchevel, Le 1947 at the Hôtel Cheval Blanc – the highest climber in this year’s listing. This Alpine restaurant has received the award after seven years of effort: Alléno received his second star in 2010, two years after opening.
Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin guides, commented on Alléno’s performance: “His work on sauces – the result of dedicated research on extraction and fermentation – combined with a mastery of techniques and marriage of flavours have been the secret to his success. Alléno’s is a cuisine that highlights the richness of the Savoyard soil, using local products such as Arctic char, crozets, féra (a fish from the depths of Lake Geneva) and mountain herbs.”
10 new 2-star restaurants in Paris, Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion...
The Michelin guide notes that use of high-quality local products is a major trend among chefs. A whole generation of young chefs are allowing ingredients to speak for themselves and prioritising flavour over presentation, following in the footsteps of their elders. Inspectors have observed less ‘foams’ and other culinary fussiness, and have found instead that emphasis is being restored to the terroir and the true identity of a region or area.
The 2017 listing has 10 new 2-star restaurants: Le Pressoir d'Argent by Gordon Ramsay and La Grande Maison by Bernard Magrez in Bordeaux; Le Prè-Xavier Beaudiment in Clermond-Ferrant; Le Montgomerie and Le Kintessence at Courchevel 1850; The Wood House of Marc Veyrat in Manigod, Haute-Savoie; La Grenouillère in La Madeleine-sous-Montreuil; Le Kei, La Table de l'Espadon and Le Clarence in Paris; The Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint-Émilion; and Le Gindreau in Saint-Médard.
57 chefs also won their first star, including Pierre Reboul of Château de la Pioline et Mickaël Feval in Aix-en-Provence; Jérémy Galvan of Miraflores in Lyon; and the chefs of 12 restaurants in and around Paris: Les Jardins de l’Espadon, Le Restaurant du Palais Royal, Sushi B, H Restaurant, Alliance, Divellec, Akrame, Le George and l’Orangerie at the Hôtel Georges V, l’Archeste, La Scène Thélème and Escargot (the last one situated in Puteaux).
2000 pages weighing 1kg with almost 500 listings... those are the statistics, but it’s up to you to discover the flavours! The Michelin Guide will be available from 15 February 2017.