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Jewish Traveler in Provence

Provence, once a center for Jewish culture and history,is a famous Religious toursdestination in France. You can visit Provence over and over again andstill want to come back. And as if Provence didn’t have enough to offer thevisitor, it also contains some of the oldest Jewish spiritual heritage sites in France.

Here Jewish culture and history has thrivedsince the early Middle Ages. The Talmud was interpreted with uncommon skill,and Jews from all over Europe sought out scholars from this religious heritage region inFrance on matters of Jewish law. When Provence came under Catalonianrule in the 12th century, the literature, science, poetry, and philosophy ofthe Jews and non-Jews of Catalonia enriched the Jewish culture.

Driving Tour

Come and take a driving religious heritage tour inFrance through the Arba Kehilot (four holy communities)—Avignon,Carpentras, Cavaillon and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. The spiritual heritage in France driving tour canbe easily completed in a day. The roads are well marked and Michelin map #245can be your guide.

The Vaucluse religious tours region in France,known historically as the Comtat Venaissin, has always been a relatively safehaven for Jews. Ceded to the Vatican in 1274, it remained in the Vatican’shands until 1791, when it reverted to France. Jews in the Comtat spoke aJudeo-Provençal dialect and developed their own liturgy, known as Comtatdin.

Under the protection of theAvignon Popes, the Jewish community flourished. Jews were permitted to live inAvignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, known at the time asthe Arba Kehilot. With the exception of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, these old French cities stillcontain fine vestiges of their old Jewish quarters.

Read about Vestiges of Jewish Life (External link)

To receive the free brochure The Road to Jewish Heritage in the South of France, contact the Vaucluse Department Tourist Office, B.P. 147, 84008 Avignon Cedex, tel. 04.90.80.47.00, www.provenceguide.com (External link).

Start your drive in Avignon.

Avignon
Tourist Office 41, cours Jean-Jaurès, 84000 Avignon, tel. 04.32.74.32.74, www.ot-avignon.fr (External link)

Ancient Ghetto

The Jewish community in Avignonhas roots that go back as the first century after the destruction of the SecondTemple in Jerusalem (70 AD). However, there are no written records of Jewish culture and historyprior to the 12th century.

The first Jewish quarter, or carrière, faced the Palais des Papes on Rue dela Vieille Juiverie. By the early 13th century, the carrière was on RueJacob and Place Jerusalem, where the present-day synagogue stands. This tinyarea, barely 100 square yards, was home to over 1,000 people. Living outsidethe carrier was forbidden by law for Jews. Walls surrounded it and three lockedgates kept Jews from leaving this site for religious tours in France without permission. Evenwhen permission was granted the Roman Catholic Church collected tolls. And evenlife within the walls of this religious heritage site in France was subject to manyrestrictions and regulations.

Synagogue
Built in 1846, the current synagogue replaced one much older that burned down. Place Jerusalem, tel. 04.90.85.21.24

Avignon to Carpentras

From Avignon, head northeast for 25 km to Carpentras. In Avignon, use D225 along the southern bank of the Rhône River to get to D942 (8 km), a straight shot to Carpentras (17 km). At Carpentras, follow signs to the center of town. Street parking is difficult, so use the municipal parking lots.

Carpentras
Tourist Office Place Aristide Briand, 84200 Carpentras, tel. 04.90.63.00.78, www.ville-carpentras.fr (External link)

Synagogue

The plain façade of this religious heritage tours inFrance monument conceals a Rococo sanctuary similar to Italiansynagogues of the same period.

Regulations in force at the timemade it illegal for synagogues to have exterior decoration.

Built during 1741–1743, thestructure of this spiritualheritage monument in France contains parts of a 14th-century synagoguethat was on the same site. The present religious heritage structure was partially restored in 1930, 1953,and 1959 and it has been designated a historic landmark and a spiritual religious heritage inFrance.

Inside, the Bimah, the raisedreading platform, is at the opposite end of the room from the Aron Kodesh, theHoly Ark, the cabinet where the Torah scrolls are kept.

This is also characteristic ofthe same Italianate style.

In Orthodox Judaism women are notpermitted to pray in the same room as men. Here and in most synagogues of thatera this separation was effected with a balcony or mezzanine that you seetoday.

But here in the 18th century,women sat in the basement where a small window allowed them to hear the chantsand prayers. In addition there was an official known as the rabbi of women.

The basement also containsremnants of a matzo oven and mikvah, a ritual bath. Place Maurice Charretier,tel. 04.90.63.39.97.

Cemetery
The medieval Jewish cemetery was destroyed in 1322, and the grave markers were used to build the town’s ramparts. The present-day cemetery was established in 1367, but as papal edict forbade tombstones in Jewish cemeteries, the earliest stones are from the 18th century. Arrange visits through the synagogue.

Carpentras to Cavaillon

Turn south on D938 for the 31-kilometer trip via L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to Cavaillon. Cavaillon, noted for its wonderful melons, is typical of small towns in Provence—sleepy and colorful. Walk around, drink in the atmosphere and stay for awhile. Chances are you’ll get used to it and won’t want to leave.

Cavaillon
Tourist Office Place François-Tourel, 843000 Cavaillon, tel. 04.90.71.32.01, www.cavaillon-luberon.com (External link)

The old Jewish quarter is on Rue Hébraïque, just off the main street and behind the tourism office.

Synagogue
Above a passageway between Rue Hébraïque and Rue Chabran, the restored synagogue overlooks the old carrière. Smaller than the one in Carpentras, but no less elaborate, the synagogue, now a national historic monument, is no longer in use.

Museum
Musée Judéo-Comtadin The museum in the synagogue’s basement (at street level), but separate from the synagogue, once housed a matzo bakery. Today, displays depict the community’s history and contain Torah scrolls, ritual objects, and historical documents. Though small, the exhibit is a fascinating look at French Jewish life in the town and in the region. 6, rue de Chabran, tel. 04.90.76.00.34

You’ll want to continue your drive into the Bouches-du-Rhône and Alpilles for visits to St-Rémy-de-Provence and Arles. From Cavaillon, turn southwest D99 for the easy trip to St-Rémy-de-Provence (19 km).

St-Rémy-de-Provence
Tourist Office Place Jean-Jaurès, 13210 St-Remy-de-Provence, tel. 04.90.92.05.22, www.saintremy-de-provence.com (External link)

Cemetery
The Jewish cemetery dates back to the Middle Ages, with tombstones from before 1400. Open once a year, during the Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days), usually the first or second weekend in September, when there are guided visits. Located next to the Plateau des Antiques.

From St-Rémy-de-Provence, take D5 south to Maussane-les-Alpilles (11 km) and turn right on D117 straight to Arles (19 km).

Arles
Tourist Office Boul. des Lices, 13200 Arles, tel. 04.90.18.41.20, www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr (External link)

During the Middle Ages, the Jewish community lived along Rue de la Juiverie, now called Rue du Docteur Fanton. In 1495 all Jews were expelled from the region, the Jewish quarter was destroyed, and the district was incorporated into the city.

Museum
The Musée Arlatan contains Jewish ritual and historical objects from Provence. Open daily (except Monday in October through June), 9:30 a.m.–12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m.–6 p.m. 29, rue de la Republique, tel. 04.90.93.58.11

Marseille Tourist Office 4, La Canebière, 13001 Marseille, tel. 04.91.13.89.00, www.Marseille-tourisme.com (External link)

France’s second largest Jewish community lives in France’s second largest city, Marseille, which Jews have called home since the sixth century, when an already existing community provided refuge to Jews fleeing forced conversions in Clermont-Ferrand. The Jews of Marseille were scholars, merchants, laborers, coral craftsmen, and brokers. Benjamin of Tudela, the 12th-century traveler who chronicled the Jewish world of the time, provides a description of scholars, philosophers, and psalmists who lived among the Marseille Jews. The present community dates back to 1760.

Synagogues
Grande Synagogue Breteuil: Not far from Marseille’s Old Port is the Grande Synagogue. Constructed in 1864, it also contains the offices of the Consistoire de Marseille and other Jewish religious organizations. The interior is typical of French synagogues constructed in the early and mid-19th century following Jewish emancipation. 117, rue de Breteuil, tel. 04.91.37.49.64
Union Libérale Israélite de France 21, rue Martiny, tel. 04.91.71.97.46
Centre Communautaire Edmond Fleg 4, impasse Dragon, Tel. 04.91.37.42.01

Kosher Restaurants
Davi's Café 7, rue Rouget de l'Isle, tel. 04.91.54.85.64. Meat
Emma Lisa 1, avenue St-Jean, tel. 04.91.90.77.72. Meat
Erets 205, rue de Rome, tel. 04.91.92.88.73. Meat
L'Avant-Scène 35, rue St-Suffren, tel. 04.91.81.13.68. Dairy
Pizz’Atikva 43, ave. des Chartreux, tel. 04.91.50.40.30. Pizza
Le Sheraton 17, rue de Village, tel. 04.96.12.40.38. Meat

Organizations
Conseil Représentatif des Institutions Juives de France 4, impasse Dragon, tel. 04.91.57.03.35, www.crif-marseilleprovence.com (External link)
Institut Méditerranéen Mémoires et Archives du Judaïsme www.immaj.org (External link)